Good ruby-red. Nuanced nose combines currant, blueberry, blackberry and graphite with hints of olive and tobacco. Sweet and penetrating; shows the best fruit intensity of these basic 2007 varietal bottlings. Currant, licorice and mineral flavors are complemented by spicy oak (nearly 60% new) and supported by a firm tannic spine. This, too, needs time. Even the youngest blocks are now 8 to 12 years old, notes winemaker Johnson, "so we're getting better-balanced wines now."

Made of equal parts Sonoma and Napa fruit, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon displays a full-bodied richness along with deep, concentrated flavors (chocolate, creme de cassis, espresso and spicy toast). This dense, impressively endowed effort should drink beautifully for a decade.